10.30pm What a great way to spend a birthday. Traditional fishing boat trip up to St Louis. Not so much faded grandeur as crumbling. As though a civil war had just finished. What a waste of great French buildings vying with goats and rubbish. Chocolate cake and champagne back at the Zebrabar and a Yorkie bar from Dom the student. My first real chocolate for more than two weeks. Irene from Lawrenny sent out a gorgeous pair of earings from the shop. I've worn them all day. How thoughtful. We share the same birthday, so if anyone is reading this in Lawrenny can they say a huge Happy Birthday back to her from me please. Five teams off exploring tomorrow on our way to Gambia. Will be hard to leave lovely Zebrabar and our little thatched hut overlooking the water, but we've recharged and it's time to see more of Senegal